Christmas markets in the Côte-d'Or:dates, hours and mulled wine

In short: from late November to late December, Côte-d’Or dresses in light for a Christmas-market season that mixes wine traditions, Burgundian gastronomy and local crafts. From Dijon’s grand market on Place de la Libération to the intimate markets of medieval Auxois and Châtillonnais villages, the département offers a varied palette of atmospheres for preparing the festive season around a glass of mulled wine and a plate of terroir products.

Burgundian Christmas markets do not resemble those of Alsace or Savoie. Here the vine and wine sit at the heart of the celebration: crémant de Bourgogne flows freely, Dijon pain d’épices scents the aisles, and stands of regional products (mustard, cheeses, snails, jambon persillé) rival classic Christmas decorations and local crafts.

Dijon’s grand Christmas market

The heart of Dijon festivity

Dijon’s Christmas market is the largest and busiest in Côte-d’Or. Set on Places de la Libération and Darcy, two of the city’s finest squares, one dominated by the Palais des Ducs, the other by the Darcy fountain, the market gathers around sixty wooden chalets offering crafts, gastronomy, mulled wine and decorations.

The main attraction of the Dijon market is its outdoor ice rink, installed on Place Darcy, which draws families throughout the period. The big wheel, on the esplanade between Place de la République and Place de la Libération, offers a plunging view over Dijon’s illuminated rooftops. The city’s illuminations, with townhouse façades highlighted by light projections, add a magical dimension to the stroll.

The market is open from late November to 24 December, every day, generally from 10.30am to 7.30pm on weekdays and until 9pm or 10pm at weekends. Entry is free.

What to eat and drink at the Dijon market

Dijon’s Christmas market is a showcase of Burgundian gastronomy. You will find:

• Mulled wine: prepared with pinot noir, spices (cinnamon, aniseed, clove), honey and citrus zest
• Crémant de Bourgogne: offered by the glass or bottle, white or rosé
• Dijon specialities: pain d’épices, nonnettes, mustard
• Cheeses: Époisses, Soumaintrain, Ami du Chambertin, Chaource
• Charcuterie: jambon persillé, saucisson, andouillette
• Burgundy snails: stuffed with parsley butter, to eat on the spot
• Oysters and seafood: a classic of Dijon Christmas markets

Entertainments not to miss

Beyond the chalets, Dijon’s market offers a programme of events: choir concerts in city-centre churches, roaming Christmas characters, creative workshops for children (face-painting, drawing, making decorations), horse-drawn carriage rides in pedestrian streets. Father Christmas is present in his chalet for photos with children.

The Musée des Beaux-Arts (in the Palais des Ducs) and the Cité internationale de la gastronomie et du vin offer themed visits and special workshops during Advent.

The Beaune Christmas market

An elegant Christmas market in a historic setting

Beaune’s Christmas market unfolds around the covered Halles and on Place de la Halle. Smaller than Dijon’s, around thirty chalets, it is more intimate and breathes Burgundian elegance. Wooden chalets line up in front of the 19th-century market hall, the glazed roofs of the Hospices glitter in the background, and illuminated medieval lanes invite wandering.

Beaune emphasises local crafts and high-end gastronomy. You will find jewellery makers, potters, cutlers, organic wine producers, chocolatiers, makers of artisan pain d’épices. Beaune mulled wine, often prepared with crémant or Bourgogne Aligoté, is among the best in the département.

The Hospices de Beaune in winter

The Christmas period is one of the finest moments to visit the Hospices de Beaune (Hôtel-Dieu). The glazed roofs, stained glass, the Salle des Povres and van der Weyden’s Last Judgement polyptych are magnificent under winter illuminations. The neighbouring Couvent des Cordeliers sometimes hosts exhibitions or events as part of Christmas festivities.

Côte-d’Or village Christmas markets

Semur-en-Auxois: medieval décor

Semur-en-Auxois, one of Burgundy’s finest medieval towns, holds a Christmas market in its historic centre, around the collégiale Notre-Dame and under the covered market halls. The setting is exceptional: the town perched on its rocky spur, dominated by its keep, offers a postcard backdrop to the Christmas chalets. Semur’s market highlights Auxois products: goat cheeses, honey, craft beers, cider, country charcuterie, glazed pottery.

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: the perched market

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, famous for its Anis factory (in operation since 1591) and for serving as the setting for the film Chocolat with Juliette Binoche, holds one of France’s most picturesque Christmas markets. Chalets are set in the medieval lanes climbing towards the Benedictine abbey, and the atmosphere is especially magical. Visits to the Anis factory are a must: the famous aniseed sweets, coated in sugar, are produced to a recipe unchanged since the 16th century.

Nuits-Saint-Georges: the Côte de Nuits market

Nuits-Saint-Georges, capital of the Côte de Nuits, holds a Christmas market that logically puts wines centre stage. Growers of the grands crus (Vosne-Romanée, Gevrey-Chambertin, Échezeaux) offer special Christmas tastings in the chalets, and tasting introductions are organised in the cellars of participating domaines. The market is more confidential than those of Dijon and Beaune, but of remarkable oenological quality.

Markets in the châteaux

Several Côte-d’Or châteaux open their doors for Christmas markets:

• Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune: Christmas market in the château stables, with a visit to the motorcycle and aviation museum
• Château de Bussy-Rabutin: market in the courtyard of honour and gardens of the 17th-century château
• Château de Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: market in this 12th-century perched château, one of Burgundy’s finest

These markets are often held over a single weekend, unlike urban markets that last several weeks.

Christmas entertainments across Côte-d’Or

Beyond the markets themselves, the Christmas period is rich in events across the département:

• Dijon: the ski and toboggan track (artificial snow) on Place Darcy, horse-drawn carriage rides, the old carousel, musical processions
• Beaune: the great illuminated fir on Place de la Halle, children’s entertainments in pedestrian lanes, Christmas concerts at the collégiale Notre-Dame
• The Route des Crèches: many Côte-d’Or churches display Christmas cribs, some animated with automata, which form tourist circuits
• Christmas tastings: several wine estates open their cellars for special Christmas tastings, where wines are paired with pain d’épices or chocolate bûches

Practical tips for visiting Christmas markets

Calendar

Côte-d’Or Christmas markets generally open from late November to 24 December. Urban markets (Dijon, Beaune) are open every day. Village markets are often limited to December weekends. Check exact dates on commune websites from autumn.

Transport

Dijon and Beaune markets are easily reached by train (Dijon station 15 minutes on foot, Beaune station 10 minutes) and by tram. For village markets (Semur, Flavigny, Châteauneuf), a car is essential.

Lodging

December is not Burgundy’s high tourist season, but December weekends see strong demand in hotels and guest rooms of market towns. Book ahead if you plan a weekend.

Budget

Market entry is free. Mulled wine costs €3 to €5 a glass. Crémant is tasted by the glass (€4–6) or bought by the bottle (€8–15). A meal on site (charcuterie-cheese plate, snails, mulled wine) comes to about €15–25 per person.